Beppu Hells: A Detailed Itinerary & Guide to Kyushu’s Steam City

As your train pulls into Beppu Station on the eastern coast of Kyushu, you immediately notice something unusual about the skyline. Plumes of white steam rise continuously from between houses, apartment buildings, and forested hillsides, giving the city an ethereal, almost industrial appearance. But this is not pollution; this is the breath of the earth. Beppu is Japan’s undisputed capital of geothermal activity, boasting more hot springs than any other city in the country.

While many visitors come to Beppu to bathe in these healing waters, the city’s most famous attraction is a collection of hot springs that are strictly not for bathing. They are too hot, too volatile, and too bizarre. These are the Jigoku, or the “Hells” of Beppu.

Visiting the Hells is a must-do experience when exploring Kyushu. In this guide, we provide a comprehensive, step-by-step itinerary to help you navigate all seven Hells efficiently, offering insider tips on transportation, where to eat, and how to avoid the crowds.

Understanding the Beppu Hells (Jigoku Meguri)

The “Jigoku Meguri” (Hell Tour) consists of seven spectacular hot springs designated as “National Places of Scenic Beauty.” Each Hell is unique, featuring different minerals that turn the boiling water deep blue, blood red, or milky white. Temperatures in these pools range from 50°C to over 100°C (122°F to 212°F).

Practical Information Before You Go

• The Ticket: Instead of buying individual tickets for each Hell (400 yen each), purchase the Jigoku Pass (Jigoku Meguri Ticket) for 2,000 yen. This pass grants entry to all seven Hells and saves you a significant amount of money. You can buy it at the entrance of any of the Hells or at the Beppu Station Tourist Information Office.
• Transportation: The Hells are split into two main districts: Kannawa (which houses five Hells) and Shibaseki (which houses two Hells). They are about 3 kilometers apart. You will need to use the local Kamenoi Bus system to get from Beppu Station to the Kannawa district, and then again to get between the two districts.
• Time Needed: You should budget at least 3 to 4 hours to see all seven Hells at a comfortable pace, plus extra time for a meal.
• When to Start: Start early! The Hells open at 8:00 AM. Arriving by 8:30 AM will allow you to enjoy the first few Hells before the large tour buses arrive.

The Ultimate Beppu Hells Itinerary

This itinerary is designed for maximum efficiency, starting in the Kannawa district and moving linearly through the attractions.

Step 1: Getting to the Kannawa District (8:30 AM)

From Beppu Station West Exit, take Kamenoi Bus #2, #5, #24, or #41. The ride takes about 20 minutes. Alight at the Umi Jigoku-mae or Kannawa bus stop.

Step 2: Umi Jigoku (The Sea Hell)

Begin your tour at the most iconic of the Hells. Umi Jigoku is stunning. The water is a brilliant, opaque cobalt blue, looking exactly like a tropical sea, but it is boiling at 98°C. The blue color is due to the presence of iron sulfate.

• Don’t Miss: The massive lotus leaves in the adjacent ponds, which are large and strong enough to support the weight of a small child during the summer months.
• Snack: Try the onsen tamago (eggs boiled in the hot spring water) or the hell-steamed pudding available at the concession stand.

Step 3: Oniishibozu Jigoku (The Shaven Monk’s Head Hell)

Located right next to Umi Jigoku, this Hell is completely different. Instead of water, it features boiling grey mud. The mud bubbles up in large, circular shapes that resemble the shaven heads of Buddhist monks (bozu). The sound of the popping mud is oddly mesmerizing.

• Relax: This Hell features a fantastic, free footbath (ashiyu). Take off your shoes and soak your feet in the warm, clear water.

Step 4: Kamado Jigoku (The Cooking Pot Hell)

A short walk down the hill brings you to Kamado Jigoku. This is essentially a “greatest hits” of the Hells, featuring several smaller ponds of different colors (blue, red, and milky white). The name comes from an ancient myth that the steam from this spring was used to cook rice offerings for the local shrine gods.

• Experience: You can drink the hot spring water here (warning: it tastes strongly of sulfur!), inhale the steam for your skin, and try another footbath.

Step 5: Oniyama Jigoku (The Monster Mountain Hell)

Also known as the “Crocodile Hell.” The force of the steam venting from the earth here is incredibly powerful. However, the main attraction is the large number of crocodiles bred and kept in the enclosures, utilizing the warmth of the geothermal waters.

• Note: Some visitors find the enclosures for the crocodiles to be quite small by modern zoo standards. If this is a concern, you may wish to walk quickly through this section.

Step 6: Shiraike Jigoku (The White Pond Hell)

The final Hell in the Kannawa district features a serene pond of milky, bluish-white water. The water actually comes out of the ground clear but turns opaque white as the pressure and temperature drop upon hitting the surface. The setting here is designed like a traditional Japanese garden, making it one of the most peaceful Hells.

Step 7: Lunch - Jigoku Mushi Kobo Kannawa (11:30 AM)

Before heading to the final two Hells, it’s time for lunch. You cannot visit Beppu without experiencing Jigoku Mushi (Hell Steaming). Walk from Shiraike Jigoku to the Jigoku Mushi Kobo Kannawa center.

• How it Works: You rent a steaming chamber (kama) by the hour. You can buy raw ingredients (vegetables, pork, seafood, chicken) from the facility or bring your own.
• The Experience: You put on thick rubber gloves and lower your bamboo trays of food into the stone vents. The natural volcanic steam cooks the food incredibly fast, locking in the natural flavors without adding any oils or fats. The resulting meal is healthy, delicious, and uniquely Beppu.

Step 8: Transit to Shibaseki District (1:00 PM)

After lunch, head to the nearby Kannawa bus terminal and catch Bus #16 or #16A heading towards Shibaseki. The ride is short, about 5 minutes. Alight at the Chinoike Jigoku-mae stop.

Step 9: Chinoike Jigoku (The Blood Pond Hell)

This is one of the oldest Hells in Japan, and perhaps the most visually striking. The water and the steam rising from it are a deep, rust red. The color comes from the red clay at the bottom of the pond, which is rich in iron and magnesium oxide. It genuinely looks like a cauldron of blood.

• Souvenir: The red clay from this pond is made into a skin ointment sold at the gift shop, reputed to be excellent for treating skin conditions.

Step 10: Tatsumaki Jigoku (The Tornado Hell)

Located right next door to the Blood Pond, this is not a pond but an active geyser. It erupts with incredible force every 30 to 40 minutes, shooting boiling water up into the air. A stone roof has been built over it to prevent the water from shooting too high and spraying the spectators.

• Timing Tip: Because it runs on a natural schedule, ask the staff at Chinoike Jigoku when the next eruption is expected before you enter Tatsumaki. You might need to wait on the stone bleachers for a few minutes.

Conclusion

Completing the Jigoku Meguri offers a fascinating, slightly surreal glimpse into the incredible geothermal power simmering just beneath the surface of the Japanese archipelago. Beppu is a city that literally breathes steam, and embracing that unique environment is what makes a visit here so memorable.

After completing your tour of the Hells, the only logical next step is to head to a traditional onsen to submerge yourself in the cooling, healing waters. Enjoy the heat!

Planning the rest of your trip? Read up on Onsen & Ryokan etiquette or explore our Fukuoka Yatai Guide for more Kyushu adventures.